Tujia Nationality Brocade Weaving (brocade called xilankapu) 土家族织锦技艺

时间：2006年
Time: 2006
类别：传统手工技艺
Category: Traditional Handicraft Skills
地区：湖南
Region: Hunan Province
编号：Ⅷ-18
Ref. No.: VIII-18
申报地区或单位：湖南省湘西土家族苗族自治州
Nominating unit[s]: Xiangxi Tujia-Miao Autonomous Prefecture, Hunan Province
湘西酉水流域土家族织锦技艺主要分布于永顺、龙山、保靖、古丈四县的土家族聚居区。土家锦用绵线织成，俗称"打花"，主要有打花铺盖（土家语西兰卡普）和花带两大品种。其中西兰卡普最具代表性和典型性，它采用"通经断纬"的挖花技术，分为"对斜"平纹素色系列和"上下斜"斜纹彩色系列两大流派。西兰卡普使用古老的纯木质腰式斜织机织造，其技艺流程主要由纺捻线、染色、倒线、牵线、装筘、滚线、捡综、翻篙、捡花、捆杆上机、织布、挑织等12道工序组成，另以"反织法"挑织成图案花纹。花带是土家锦中普及面更广的品种，它采用"通经通纬"的古老"经花"手法，几乎不需专用工具即可在织造者两膝间完成。
Tujia nationality brocade weaving (brocade called xilankapu) along Xiangxi Youshui River basin is mainly distributed in Tujia's inhabitations in the four counties of Yongshun, Longshan, Baojing and Guzhang. Tujia brocade is woven with cotton thread, and locally called "dahua", including two major types, namely brocaded beddings (called xilankapu in Tujia language) and brocaded ribbons. based on the flower-forming skills of "passing warp thread and cutting weft thread", Xilankapu is the most representative and typical one, and is further divided into two subcategories, "oppositely slanting" plain weave series and "up-down slanting" colored twill series. Xilankapu is woven with age-old waist-type tilted looms purely made of wood. The weaving procedure mainly consists of twelve steps: thread spinning and twisting, dyeing, winding, pulling, reeding, rolling, jianzong, turning pole, making flower pattern, binding and feeding, weaving, and cross stitch based weaving. Design patterns are woven by cross stitch through "reverse weaving method". Brocaded ribbons are a more common type of tujia brocade and can be made using the old "lengthwise brocading" skill of "passing warp thread and then weft thread" between the two knees of a weaver without any special tools.
湘西土家族织锦技艺历史悠久，自成形以来已有一千五百多年的历史，体现了中国少数民族织锦技艺体系的基本特征。
Xiangxi Tujia nationality brocade weaving has a history as long as over one thousand and five hundred years and embodies the basic features of brocade weaving system of Chinese ethnic groups.
土家锦的四百多种传统图案花纹是其民族文化心理和不同时代文化积淀的独特表现方式，充分展示了土家人的创造力，对中华民族多元文化的形成与发展有积极的见证意义。
More than four hundred kinds of traditional decorative patterns on Tujia brocade are unique forms of expression of Tujia ethnic cultural psychology and cultural heritage of different times. They also fully reflect the creativity of Tujia people and serve as a significant witness for the establishment and development of Chinese multiculture.
湘西酉水流域土家族地区是土家锦手工技艺的原生地和最后一块热土，也是全国土家族中至今仍保留民间织造风尚的惟一区域。然而，社会的变革、经济结构和文化意识的变化，正使土家族织锦技艺逐步失去赖以生存的土壤和环境，陷入全面濒危的境地，亟待采取强有力的措施予以保护。
Tujia's inhabitations along Xiangxi Youshui River basin is the cradle as well as the last hometown for Tujia brocade handicraft skills. It is also the only region in China wher weaving is still prevalent among Tujia people. However, changes in social development, economic structure and cultural awareness are causing Tujia brocade handicraft skills to be on the verge of extinction by depriving the condition and environment that they rely on for existence. Effective measures are in urgent need to protect these valuable skills.
相关传承人：
Inheritor(s)
叶水云 刘代娥
Ye Shuiyun and Liu Dai'e