Li Nationality Traditional Dyeing, Weaving and Embroidery Skills 黎族传统棉纺织染绣技艺

时间：2006年
Time: 2006
类别：传统手工技艺
Category: Traditional Handicraft Skills
地区：海南
Region: Hainan Province
编号：Ⅷ—19
Ref. No.: VIII-19
申报地区或单位：海南省五指山市、白沙黎族自治县、保亭黎族苗族自治县、乐东黎族自治县、东方市
Nominating unit[s]:
Wuzhishan City, Hainan Province.
Baisha Li Autonomous County, Hainan Province.
Baoting Li-Miao Autonomous County, Hainan Province.
Ledong Li Autonomous County, Hainan Province.
Dongfang City, Hainan Province.
黎族的织染技艺历史悠久，特点鲜明，有麻织、棉织、织锦、印染（包括扎染）、刺绣、龙被等品种。
The weaving and dyeing skills of Li nationality have a very long history and distinctive characteristics. By using these skills, Li people produce a variety of fabrics, including ramie weaving products, cotton weaving products, brocades, dyeing and finishing (including tie-dyeing) products, embroideries, imperial quilts, etc.
黎族聚居区有极为丰富的木棉、野麻等纺织、印染原料。在棉纺织品普及之前，野麻纺织品在黎族地区盛行。人们一般在雨季将采集的野麻外皮扒下，经过浸泡、漂洗等工艺，渍为麻匹。麻匹经染色后，用手搓成麻纱，或用纺轮捻线，然后织成布。野麻布质地坚实，多用于制作劳动时穿着的外衣和下裳。
In the region inhibited by Li people, there are very rich ceiba and ramie resources that can be used as raw materials for weaving, dyeing and finishing. Before cotton fabrics were widely used, fabrics made from wild ramie had been very popular there. People usually peel the cortices of collected wild ramie in rainy seasons. After the processes of soaking, rinsing, etc., the cortices are soaked and made into ramie rolls. After being dyed, the ramie rolls are rubbed with hands into ramie yarn, or twisted using the spinning wheel, and then are weaved into cloths. The wild ramie cloth is endurable and is often used to make garments and skirts worn by people in work.
黎族织锦的图案丰富多彩，有160种以上，主要有人物、动物、植物、花卉、生活用具、几何图案等纹样，而以人物、动物、植物图案为主。织造黎锦的机杼主要有脚踏织机和踞腰织机两种。踞腰织机是极为古老的织机，黎族妇女可用它织出精美华丽的复杂图案，不同图案、色彩和风格的黎锦曾是区分具有不同血缘关系的部落群体的重要标志，具有极其重要的人文价值。
The brocade of Li nationality has more than 160 kinds of patterns, including figures, animals, plants, flowers, articles for daily use, geometric patterns, etc., with the majority being figures, animals and plants. There are mainly two kinds of looms that are used to weave Li brocades, namely treadle loom and waist loom. The latter one is an extremely ancient weaving loom, by which women of the Li nationality can weave exquisite and gorgeous complex patterns. Brocades of different patterns, colors and styles were once important signs to differentiate tribes and groups that had different blood lineages, thus possessing significant cultural value.
黎族的印染以扎染为主，古代称为绞缬。织物经过结扎、入染、晒干、折线等步骤，最后形成色彩斑斓的花布。印染所用的染料以植物的叶、花卉、树皮、树根等为主，天然矿物颜料为辅。
The major form of dyeing and finishing of the Li nationality is tie-dyeing, which was called jiaoxie in ancient times. After procedures of knotting, tying, dyeing, drying in the sun, removing stitches, etc., fabrics finally become bright colored cloth. The dyes used for dyeing and finishing are mainly from plant sources — leaves, flowers, bark, roots, etc., and natural mineral pigments are used as auxiliary dyeing materials.
黎族刺绣有平面刺绣和双面绣两种，其中以白沙地区润方言黎族的双面绣最为著名，构图和图案都非常精美。
Embroidery of the Li nationality includes flat embroidery and bifacial embroidery. Of the two, the bifacial embroidery of those Li people that inhibit in Baisha and speak the Run dialect is the most famous one, with both its design and patterns extraordinarily beautiful.
龙被是黎锦中的珍品，它集纺织、印染、刺绣、织造等多种技艺于一体，制作精巧，色彩鲜艳，图案典雅，款式多样，在黎锦中技艺最为突出、文化艺术价值最高，因而成为海南地区历代进贡的珍品。龙被又称大被，史书上称为崖州被。龙被织绣因黎族方言和居住地区的不同而产生各异的艺术风格和特色，成为研究黎族文化演进的宝贵实物资料。1950年以后，部分黎族妇女已不再织造龙被，如今掌握此项技艺的妇女大多年事已高，而且缺少传人，亟待拯救。
Of the Li brocades, imperial quilts are of precious value. Produced by integrating skills of spinning, dyeing and finishing, embroidering, and weaving, it is exquisite and bright colored, with elegant patterns and varied styles. With the highest cultural and artistic value and showing outstanding skills, imperial quilts were once offered as tributes in the area of Hainan in many dynasties. Imperial quilts are also called dabei (large quilt). In historical records, it is referred to as “Yazhou Quilt”. Due to different dialects and settlements of Li people, imperial quilts take on different artistic styles and characteristics, thus becoming valuable and tangible materials for research into the culture of the Li nationality. After 1950, a proportion of women of the Li nationality do not weave imperial quilts any more. Today, on one hand, most of those who master the imperial quilt weaving skills are getting old. On the other hand, inheritors are few. Therefore, efforts are in urgent need to save these skills.
相关传承人：
Inheritor(s):
容亚美
刘香兰
Rong Yamei and Liu xianglan