Nanjing Yunjin (‘Cloud Brocade’) Loom and Weaving Skills 南京云锦木机妆花手工织造技艺

时间：2006年
Time: 2006
类别：传统手工技艺
Category: Traditional Handicraft Skills
地区：江苏
Region: Jiangsu Province
编号：Ⅷ-13
Ref. No.: VIII-13
申报地区或单位：江苏省南京市
Nominating unit[s]: Nanjing City, Jiangsu Province
在古代丝织物中，"锦"是代表最高技术水平的织物。南京云锦浓缩了中国丝织技艺的精华，是中国古代三大名锦之一。南京云锦的生产现主要分布在南京市的秦淮、建邺、白下、玄武、栖霞五区。一千五百多年前，史籍即有关于南京丝织品的文字记载，但无实物流传。东晋末年，南京有了专门生产织锦的机构--斗场锦署。北宋南迁后，南京成为中国的丝织中心。南京云锦织金饰约始于元代，而彩色妆花织金饰则盛于明清两代。
Of all the ancient silk fabrics, brocade represents the highest techniques. Reflecting the quintessence of Chinese silk weaving skills, Nanjing yunjin, is one of the three well-known brocades made in ancient China. At present, the Nanjing yunjin is mainly produced in Qinhuai, Jianye, Baixia, Xuanwu, and Qixia districts of Nanjing City. More than one thousand and five hundred years ago, there were historical records about Nanjing silk fabrics, but no tangible articles can be found today. In the late years of Eastern Jin Dynasty, Douchang Brocade Bureau, an organization fully in charge of brocade production, was set up in Nanjing. After the Northern Song court retreated south of the Yangtze River, Nanjing became the silk weaving center of China. The practice of using Nanjing yunjin to make gold ornaments dated back to the Yuan Dynasty, while the practice of using colorful zhuanghua brocade to make gold ornaments was extremely popular in Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty.
南京云锦是用传统的大花楼木织机、由拽花工和织手两人相互配合，通过手工操作织造出来的。这种操作劳动强度大、工艺水平高，老艺人有"一抡、二揿、三抄、四会、五提、六捧、七拽、八掏、九撒"的拽花字诀，织手要做到足踏开口、手甩梭管、嘴念口诀、脑中配色、眼观六路、全身配合。云锦主要品种有织金、库锦、库缎和妆花四大类，前三类已可用现代机器生产，惟妆花的"挖花盘织"、"逐花异色"至今仍只能用手工完成。
The Nanjing yunjin is manually weaved through the cooperation of a thread puller and a weaver by using the traditional bulky wooden loom. This operation involves intense labor and high level of skills. Veteran craftsmen usually have a set of thread pulling procedure "whirling→pressing→grabbing→joining→lifting→holding→pulling→ picking→spreading", of which the essence is the coordination of the whole body, i.e., when one's feet begin to act, one's mouth starts to read the operating gist, one's hands to pull the shuttle, one's mind to think of color combination, and one's eyes to keep close watch on the state of the operation. Yunjin can be mainly divided into four categories: gold weave, Ku brocade, Ku satin, and zhuanghua silk. The previous three categories can be produced with modern machines now, while the techniques of "twining the pattern and weaving the materials into the brocade" and of "making flowers take on different colors one by one" for the zhuanghua silk still requires manual work.
南京云锦中包含的文化、科技内涵十分丰富，可以为中国工艺史、科技史、文化史提供实证材料。清朝康熙至嘉庆年间，南京云锦生产规模巨大，木织机达到三万多台，有二十余万人以此为业，年产锦缎上百万匹，产值在3000万两白银以上。光绪末年云锦业开始走向衰落，1949年南京解放时全市能生产的云锦织机只有4台。1949年后，经抢救、扶持和保护，云锦技艺得到传承。
The Nanjing yunjin has rich cultural and scientific implications, and may serve to provide practical evidence for China's craftsmanship history, science and technology history, and cultural history. During the Kangxi period and the Jiaqing period of Qing Dynasty, the production scale of Nanjing yunjin was enormous. Wooden looms amounted to more than thirty thousand sets, and more than two hundred thousand people took yunjin weaving as their profession, thus annually producing more than a million bolts of brocades worth over 30 million liang (1 liang= 36.9g in that period) of silver. In the last years of Emperor Guangxu, the yunjin industry started to decline. Until the liberation of Nanjing in 1949, there were only four yunjin looms which were able to produce yunjin in the whole city. After 1949, yunjin weaving skills have been successfully passed on thanks to efforts made for their recovery, support and protection.
随着现代科技的发展，丝织新品种不断涌现，服饰面料更新换代加速，市场对云锦的需求量减少，加之云锦的学艺周期长、劳动强度大，青年人多不愿从事此项工作，妆花手工织造技艺已濒临失传。目前，云锦研究所确认的传承人有24人，都是具有多年云锦设计、织造经验的技艺人员。应保护和利用好这一资源，使南京云锦技艺得以传承和发展。
With the development of modern technologies, new varieties of silk fabrics continuously to emerge, and the updat of apparel fabrics is speeding up. As market demands for yunjin are low, while the learning of yunjin weaving skills involves long period and intense labor, most of the young people are unwilling to be engaged in this profession, so the zhuanghua weaving skills are on the verge of extinction. At present, there are 24 persons who are confirmed by the yunjin research institute as successors. They all have years of experience in yunjin design and weaving. It is necessary to protect and utilize this resource appropriately in order to promote the inheritance and development of the Nanjing yunjin weaving skills.
相关传承人：
Inheritor(s):
朱枫 周双喜 金文
Zhu Feng, Zhou Shuangxi, and Jin Wen