Shui Nationality Horsetail Embroidery 水族马尾绣

时间：2006年
Time: 2006
类别：民间美术
Category: Folk Art
地区：贵州
Region: Guizhou Province
编号：Ⅶ-23
Ref. No.: VII-23
申报地区或单位：c
Nominating unit[s]: Sandu Shui Autonomous County, Guizhou Province
贵州省三都是全国惟一的水族自治县，位于贵州省黔南布依族苗族自治州东南部。水族马尾绣是水族妇女世代传承的以马尾作为重要原材料的一种特殊刺绣技艺。这种水族独有的民间传统工艺，分布在三都境内三洞、中和、廷牌、塘州、水龙等乡镇的水族村寨。
Sandu County, Guizhou, the only Shui autonomous county of its kind in China, is located in the southeast of the Qiannan Miao-Buyi Autonomous Prefecture, Guizhou Province. The horsetail embroidery of the Shui Nationality is a special craft which uses horsetail hair as a main raw material for embroidery, and is passed down from generation to generation by women of Shui Nationality. This unique traditional folk craft is practiced in Shui Nationality villages of such towns and townships in Sandu County as Sandong, Zhonghe, Tingpai, Tangzhou and Shuilong.
水族马尾绣的起源已不可考，主要产品形式有马尾绣背带和马尾绣花鞋等。四川成都织绣和其他民族的刺绣技艺也用马尾为原材料，但只有水族才如此集中地将之用于背带等绣品。
The horsetail embroidery of Shui Nationality has an untraceable origin, and it is mainly seen in the form of straps and shoes among other things. Horsetails are also used as raw material for weaving and embroidery by embroiderers in Chengdu, Sichuan Province and other ethnic groups, but only the Shui nationality uses it as the main elements to make straps, and other types of embroidery.
水族马尾绣工艺有自己独特的制作技艺与方法。第一步先取马尾3至4根做芯，用手工将白色丝线紧密地缠绕在马尾上，使之成为类似低音琴弦的预制绣花线。第二步再将这种白丝马尾芯的绣线盘绣于传统刺绣或剪纸纹样的轮廓上。第三步用7根彩色丝线编制成扁形彩线，填绣在盘绣花纹的轮廓中间部位。第四步再按照通常的平绣、挑花、乱针、跳针等刺绣工艺绣出其余部分。
There are a variety of unique skills and methods involved in this craft. The first step is to take 3 to 4 pieces of horsetail hairs as the core, around which white silk threads are tightly wrapped by hand, making pre-made embroidery threads akin to bass strings. The second is to use the threads to embroider the outline of traditional embroideries and paper-cut patterns. The third is to make flat colored threads with 7 colored silk threads and use them to fill the inside area of the coiled embroidery patterns. The fourth is to complete the rest using such ordinary techniques as flat embroidery, cross-stitch embroidery, random stitch, skipped stitch, etc.
马尾绣工艺十分复杂，采用这种工艺制作的绣品具有浅浮雕感，造型抽象、概括、夸张。马尾绣工艺主要用于制作背小孩的背带（水语称为“歹结”）及翘尖绣花鞋（水语称为“者结”）、女性的围腰和胸牌、童帽、荷包、刀鞘护套等。虽历经时代和环境的变化，但其造型理念和程式化符号基本不变。马尾绣背带主要包括三部分，上半部为主体图案，由二十多块大小不同的马尾绣片组成，周围边框在彩色缎料底子上用大红或墨绿色丝线平绣出几何图案，而在上部两侧为马尾绣背带手，下半部为背带尾，有精美的马尾绣图案与主体部位相呼应，“歹结”成为通体绣花的完整艺术品。制作这样一件“歹结”要花一年左右的时间。水族中老年妇女制作“歹结”尾花，一般不用剪纸底样，而直接在红色或蓝色缎料上用预制好的马尾绣线盘绣，综合运用结绣、平针、乱针，灵活自如，图案美观耐看。
The horsetail embroidery technique is very intricate, and works using the technique appears to have a bas-relief, with abstract, generalized, and exaggerated shapes. This type of art is mainly used for products like children’s strap (“Daijie” in Shui Nationality language), embroidered upper shoes (“Zhejie” in Shui Nationality language), women’s waist ornaments and badges, children’s hats, purses, knife sheaths, etc. Despite the changes in time and environment, the shaping concepts and stylized symbols of “Daijie” remain almost the same. Horsetail embroidery straps are mainly composed of three parts. Its upper half has the main patterns consisting over 20 horsetail embroidery pictures in different sizes while the frame is embroidered with geometric patterns on colored satin with Chinese red or dark green silk threads using a flat embroidery technique. On the two sides of the upper part, there are horsetail embroidery strap handles, and the strap tail lies in the lower half wher the delicate horsetail embroidery patterns echo the main patterns, making “Daijie” an integrated artwork that is embroidered completely. It takes about one year to make such a “Daijie”. When making the tail pattern of “Daijie”, the middle-aged and elderly women of the Shui Nationality directly use pre-made embroidery silk threads to operate coiled embroidery on red or blue satin without any paper-cut patterns, flexibly employing so many different embroidery techniques as knot stitch, plain stitch, and random stitch to make the end product beautiful.
遗憾的是，由于社会变革等方面的原因，马尾绣工艺传承出现严重断层，现代马尾绣的工艺制品质量下降，人们已很少愿意使用，对水族马尾绣这一特殊的工艺门类应当进行抢救、保护。
Unfortunately, due to social changes and other reasons, the inheritance of horsetail embroidery craftsmanship has been seriously neglected and the quality of modern horsetail embroidery products has become poor. As a result, few people are willing to use such products. As such, it is imperative to protect the special craftsmanship of horsetail embroidery of Shui Nationality from disappearing forever.