Qingyang Perfume Sachets 庆阳香包绣制

时间：2006年
Time: 2006
类别：民间美术
Category: Folk Art
地区：甘肃
Region: Gansu Province
编号：Ⅶ-26
Ref. No.: Ⅶ-26
申报地区或单位：甘肃省庆阳市
Nominating unit[s]: Qingyang city, Gansu Province
庆阳市位于甘肃省最东部，地处黄河中上游的黄土高原，是陕甘宁三省的交会处。秦时为北地郡，隋代改庆州，宋代定为庆阳府。当地流传的庆阳香包又称“绌绌”，是庆阳的一种民间民俗物品。
Qingyang is situated in the farthest eastern part of Gansu Province, or on the Loess Plateau along the middle and upper reaches of the Yellow River, and is the intersection of Shaanxi, Gansu and Ningxia provinces. It was once named as Beidijun (North County) in the Qin Dynasty, Qingzhou in the Sui Dynasty and Qingyang Prefecture in the Song Dynasty. Qingyang perfume sachet, also known as Chuchu, is a kind of folk item that is popular among local people in the Qingyang area.
庆阳地区有端午节制作佩带“绌绌”（“绌”原指原始骨针的一种缝制方法，后借称用布缝制、袋口能松能紧的包袋）的习俗，其起始时间尚不可考，据说形成于公元前两千三百多年，《黄帝内经》的作者歧伯曾携一药袋防疫驱瘟、禁蛇毒，开创“薰蒸法”。因歧伯生于庆阳，故此法在当地渐成习俗，流传不断。草药被称为“香草”，因而药袋便称为“香包”或“绌绌”。至明清两代，庆阳香包十分兴盛，成为人们佩戴或馈赠的佳品。20世纪60年代以前，庆阳香包的绣制普及到家家户户，庆阳女孩儿多“七岁八岁学针线”。20世纪60年代，庆阳香包开始走向沉寂。近二十年，香包的制作与刺绣又开始复兴，2002年庆阳市被中国民俗学会命名为“香包刺绣之乡”。
Preparing and wearing Chuchu during the Dragon Boat Festival has long become a custom among the people living in the Qingyang area. (Chu was originally referred to a sewing method with bone needles and was later borrowed to refer to using cloth to sew a kind of bag wher its opening can either be tightened or loosened.) However, the time when this custom first took place has yet to be studied and verified. It is said that this custom was formed at a time earlier than 2300 BC when Qi Bo (the author of the Medical Classic of the Yellow Emperor) was carrying a bag of herbal medicine that could prevent epidemic and plague and prohibit snake venom, and hence the "fumigation treatment" was created. Since Qi Bo was born in Qingyang, this treatment had gradually become a custom, which has been passed on from generation to generation. The herbal medicine was called "perfume herb" and therefore, the medicine bag was called "perfume sachet" or "Chuchu". Qingyang perfume sachet flourished and became a preferred item to be worn or given as a gift by people during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Before the 1960s, the embroidery of Qingyang perfume sachet was a common skill to every household and most Qingyang girls started needlework at the age of seven or eight. The custom of making and wearing Qingyang perfume sachets, however, began to turn sour in the 1960s. For the past two decades, the custom of embroidering Qingyang perfume sachets has begun to recover. In 2002, Qingyang was named by China Folklore Society as the "Town of Perfume Sachet Embroidery" .
庆阳香包是一种立体造型和平面刺绣兼容的纯手工艺制品，构型简单质朴，按制作技艺分有“绌绌”类、线盘类、立体刺绣类、平面刺绣类四大类型。“绌绌”又名藏针绣，其特点是把针线藏起来，以造型状物、形神兼备而不见针线为佳境，其工艺流程包括创意、选料、剪裁、状物等环节。线盘类香包是用各色线条盘成五角菱形的“粽子”，其技艺包括折壳子、配色线、盘线成型、成果（即将线盘成品连缀，吊上彩穗）等，如此制成的香包可以随身佩戴，可以挂在门庭，也可以馈赠他人，以寓示祥和平安。立体刺绣类香包内容庞杂，形式繁多，有单面挂、佩件，双面挂、佩件，立体挂件和摆件等近四百种样式，其制作过程分构图、刺绣、彩染、缝合、成果等环节，有过样子、打样子、扩背子、上样子、绣花、状物、成果、打扮等工艺步骤，制品讲究神似而不求形似。平面刺绣类香包风格敦厚凝重，厚实中流露出隽永，其制作有破线绣、合线绣、掇绣及齐针、辫针、缉针、掺针、抢针、挽针、盘金、点金、圈金等方法。
Qingyang perfume sachet is a 100% handmade craftwork which has a three-dimensional shape compatible with flat embroidery. It is simple in structure and can be divided by production techniques into four categories, namely "Chuchu", thread coil, three-dimensional embroidery and flat embroidery. "Chuchu" is also known as hidden embroidery, wherin the needlework is hidden so as for the sachet to take shape and achieve the ideal effect of unifying form and spirit without seeing the needlework. The process comprises design, selecing materials, cutting, shaping, etc. The thread coil sachet is a pentagon-shaped "dumpling" formed by coiling up colored threads, and its process consisting of folding shells, matching color stitches, shaping of coiled thread, finishing (i.e. clustering the made-up thread coil and hanging on the color ear) etc, so that the finished sachet can be worn on the person, hung on doors and given to others as a gift to symbolize harmony and peace. The three-dimensional embroidery sachet comes in many styles and shapes. It has nearly 400 styles including single-sided hanging and wearing parts, double-sided hanging and wearing parts, three-dimensional hanging parts and decorative items etc. Its production process comprises composition, embroidery, color dyeing, stitching, finishing etc, and its process steps include drawing a plane figure, making the plane figure, using paste to stick the cloth onto the made-up back, drawing patterns on the broken-down parts according to the plane figure patterns, embroidering, shaping, finishing, decorating etc. The finished product lays a special stress on the similarity of spirit rather than that of shape. Flat-embroidery sachet is in solid and dignified style, wheras in this solidness shows something meaningful. It can be made by way of broken line embroidery, cooperative embroidery, pick-up embroidery and homogeneous stitches, braided stitches, close and straight stitches, mixed stitches, rushing stitches, pulling stitches, spiral gold stitches, point gold stitches, circle gold stitches or other methods.
庆阳香包是一门传统工艺，现在主要的传承人有李秀娥、贺梅英等。目前庆阳香包绣制面临着手工产品被现代复制品取代的局面，刺绣工艺渐已失传，具备民俗文化知识的极少数工作者多半退休，研究人才奇缺，后继乏人，亟待抢救、保护。
Qingyang perfume sachet is a traditional craftsmanship, and nowadays the main successors to this craftsmanship include Li Xiu'e and He Meiying etc. At present, the embroidery of Qingyang perfume sachet is facing a grim situation in which handmade products are about to be replaced by modern replicas. Embroidery techniques have gradually been losing. The very small number of craftsmen with knowledge of folk culture has virtually retired and there is a critical shortage of researchers and a lack of qualified successors. Hence, urgent measures are required to save and protect this craftsmanship from being lost.